Here at ScotClans we have been very privileged to have worked with some great kilt makers, I have always been in complete awe of their skill, it’s almost super-human.   I’m a kilt lover and can sell kilts but making them is something I couldn’t imagine …. basically someone orders a kilt from us, I send the tartan out to our kilt maker living up in the Highlands. Then like magic a beautifully hand stitched kilt turns up a few weeks later.  I am sure Wizard magic has been involved in the making of it.

For as long as I have been involved with the tartan industry I have known three things:

• There are very few true kilt makers out there – they are as rare as hen’s teeth.
• The art of traditional kilt making is dying out, kilt makers aren’t taking on apprentices any more.
• Making a kilt is really really hard and takes a massive amount of training – in a way it is an un-touchable craft.

Conscious that our business was growing and there will soon come a time when our kilt maker will surely reach the limit of kilts she can make for us I embarked on the quest of trying to find more kilt makers.  Also I had been told that the art of traditional kilt making was probably going to die out in the next 20 years and really wanted to find new kilt makers to work with.  Very soon kilts will just be machine made and imported, this is just a heartbreaking idea.

A few google searches pulled up ‘The Edinburgh Kiltmakers Academy’, this quickly turned into a visit.  Both myself and Agnieszka (our very talented seamstress/crafts person) popped in to see what they were up to.   In a basement below Gordon Nicholsons Kilt Makers we met Nikki Laird, basically ‘The Kilt Guru’. Together with Gordon Nicholson she had created The Edinburgh Kiltmakers Academy. It took about 10 seconds and we were both totally sold on the idea of joining the course.   Thanks to CAPITB trust we were able to get funding to put both myself and Agnieszka through the kilt making course.

The Course

The course is an SVQ Level 3 in Kiltmaking.  To pass you need to make 6 kilts (all by hand) including:

• A Kids Kilt pleated to stripe.
• A Gents Mediumweight  8 yard Kilt pleated to sett
• A Heavyweight Gents 8 yard Kilt
• A Kingussie Kilt
• A Ladies Kilt
• A Military Box Pleated Kilt

Oh and I think it ends in a fashion show!

We also learn about the history of kilts, highland wear and tartan.

To find out more see: http://www.edinburghkiltmakersacademy.com/

Diary of kilt making

We are now on week 5 of the course and have completed our kids kilt and our first gents kilt.  To give you an idea of the stages of making  kilt:

1. Ripping the tartan
You rip the tartan to get the length of the kilt. Tartan has a selvage edge (doesn’t fray) this forms the bottom of the kilt. Ripping the tartan is fun, makes a great noise.

Agnieszka ripping the tartan!

2. Measuring and marking out

This I imagine is going to be the hardest bit of kilt making. Understanding the tartan, how to get the most amount of pleats out of a piece of tartan. A lot of modern tartans are not designed with kilt making in mind.
Setts (the repeating pattern in tartan) can be non-matching. Basically it’s a minefield of scary things.
You start by choosing a centre point of your apron. This will match the centre point of the back of the pleats. For our kids kilt we pleated to the stripe.  If you can make it out in the photo below, I picked the green stripe to pleat to.

pleating to the stripe

All of the shaping on a kilt is done in the pleats.  If you look at the top of the pleats, they should be tapered this is the waist to seat measurement.   We were taught the art of invisible stitching for the pleats – yes proper wizard magic!

3. Cutting the pleats then steeking the pleats

Me cutting the pleats – holding my breath

Then after spending hours doing your invisible stitching you turn over the kilt and cut big chunks out of it.  To stop the kilt collapsing the pleats need to be steeked (such a lovely word).

4.  Internal bits
Over the cut pleats a stabilising ribbon is put in.  Then the canvas is added.  The waistband is added next.  Then all of this inside workings is all neatly covered with a lining.  Kilts are often signed by their kilt maker on the canvas.  Maybe I should leave a note?

4. Finished
So thanks to ‘The Kilt Guru’  Nikki Laird I finished my kids kilt.  I’m amazed it actually looks like a kilt.

Kilt number 2 – The Gents Kilt
For my Gents kilt I chose an Irish Tartan – County Waterford, after deciding on this tartan purely because I liked the colours I found out Rodger’s (the husband)  grandmother was born in Country Waterford, so decided to make this kilt for my son.

This kilt was made to the sett.

Gents Kilt by Amanda – just need to press

What I’ve learnt

Kilt making is an incredible craft to learn – and I love it!.
The amount of work and skill that goes into a kilt is incredible and am amazed at how little kilts cost after all of this.   Kilts out there are not always made by one person, most kilts you buy are made by a group of people, each just doing one part of the kilt.  This isn’t good … no one is trained to fully make a kilt and bad companies out there can get away with paying kilt makers peanuts.
I am determined now to really promote that the kilts at ScotClans are and have always been made by one person and say who the kilt maker is.  Kilt makers need to be paid well for their work and given the acknowledgement and respect.  The Edinburgh Kiltmaking Academy has given hope that there is a future for traditional hand stitched kilts made by one person.

The post Learning to make a kilt appeared first on ScotClans | Scottish Clans.

The Sgian Dubh is a small edged knife, usually 3-4 inches in length, that is worn as part of the traditional Highland dress tucked into the top of the kilt hose with only the handle visible. It’s origins are fairly unclear, although it is now a purely ornamental item, most communally applied with an underage blade, that is an essential part of the full Highland outfit.

The word sgian dubh, pronounced ‘skee-an doo’, translates from Gaelic to ‘black knife’. This is usually derived as meaning a ‘hidden’ blade, with the black being used much the same way as in black market or blackmail. This is further given credence when compared to other Gaelic words, such as dubh-fhacal translated as ‘riddle’ or ‘hidden word’, or dubh-cheist translated as ‘enigma’ or ‘hidden question’.

One theory behind the origins of the sgian dubh is that the knife evolved form another blade carried by the Highlanders, the sgian achlais. Slightly larger than the sgian dubh and likely a close relative of the dirk, the sgian achlais was carried on the upper sleeve or concealed within the jacket. During this time etiquette demanded that a guest would reveal any weapons upon entering their hosts home. As such the knife would instead be placed on display, but still within reach, usually within the top of the hose.

The sgian dubh also has a lot in common with a more practical utility blade, used for cutting fruit. food or for skinning. When the Highland Dress Proscription Act came into effect after the Battle of Culloden, it was made illegal for Highlanders to bear arms of any kind. The relatively small size of the sgian dubh was deemed acceptable and it therefore became a popular utility knife for everyday use.

The early blades varied in construction, some having a “clipped”, such as found on the Bowie knife or “drop” point. The “spear-point” tip has now become universal. The earliest known blades, some housed in the National Museum of Scotland in Edinburgh, are made from German or Scandinavian steel, which was highly prized by the Highlanders. Scalloped filework on the back of the blade is common on all Scottish knives. Most early sgian dubhs are shown to have used stag horn for the construction of the handle, as it was a readily available and hardwearing.

Since the modern sgian dubh is only used in a ceremonial capacity the blades tend to be of a simple construction with a blunted edge and are typically made from stainless steel. The hilts on modern sgian dubhs are made form a variety of materials. The lower quality versions usually utilise a molded resin or plastic, which lowers the price but also the quality. The mid range again dubhs tend to utilise more traditional materials such as real stag horn(generally collected as it is is naturally shed, so no harm is caused to the animals at all), which is renowned for it’s hardiness, or carved wood. On the higher end of the scale full metal handles are used, generally featuring some kind of coloured stone, such as a cairngorm.

Here at ScotClans we sell a fine range of Scottish made sgian dubhs in various styles and finishes and we are sure we will have the right one for you. Something to keep in mind, as with a kilt, is a good sgian dubh will last more than a lifetime and can make a fantastic heirloom to pass down to your children. One of my prized possessions is my fathers sgian dubh.

Come take a look at our full range of sgian dubhs HERE

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The book, which is numbered 37 of 500 copies, is set to fetch between £500-800 in the sale. It also provides a historical observation on the literature, art, manufactures, and commerce of the Highlands and Western Isles during the middle ages, and on the influence of the sixteenth century, seventeenth, and eighteenth centuries upon their present condition.

The books authors have been the subject of much controversy in recent years, and were recently the subject of the BBC documentary Spinning a Yarn: The Dubious History of Scottish Tartan.

Costume of the Clans was published by John and Charles Allen, the sons of a naval officer, who moved to Scotland from England and changed their name to Sobieski Stuart, claiming to be descended from Bonnie Prince Charlie.

When it was first published, the book was celebrated by the gentry, but experts now insist the brothers were fantasists or early marketing geniuses, who invented many of the tartans and traditions themselves.

They also claimed to have discovered a manuscript, Vestiarium Scoticum, or wardrobe of the Scots, which could be traced back to the 1580s.

Vestiarium Scoticum was published in 1842, followed in 1845 by The Costume of the Clans.

Brian Wilton, director of the Scottish Tartans Authority, said: “The Costume of the Clans is amazing, filled with fantastic illustrations. The problem is, one does not know what is fantasy and what might be based on fact.“The Sobieskis produced beautiful tartan designs, and even allocated tartans to families, who had never had a tartan before, particularly in the Lowlands.“Of course, they were only too happy to accept everything the Sobieskis said, because it made them the equal of those in society who were connected to the Highlands.“Much of it was pure fantasy, but they were hugely influential. Following the visit to Scotland of George IV in 1822, the Sobieskis helped establish the importance of tartan.“Most of these are the tartans we have today for the clans.”Henry Baggott of Bonhams said: “This particularly impressive book had an enormous impact when it was originally published in 1845, and lavishly reproduced nearly 50 years later in 1892. It is beautifully bound and the artwork is striking.

“There could be a large market for this book, including perhaps among clan chiefs. There is also a strong market in America for this kind of thing.”

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Cabin crew sport tartan scarves in front of easyJet’s new tartan-clad plane

A distinctive orange and black tartan-clad aircraft has been unveiled to mark a new early morning flight from Inverness to London Gatwick. Budget airline EasyJet launched the tartan today entitled “Highland aircraft” on its Airbus A319 aircraft, alongside a kilt and scarf sported by cabin crew on its inaugural 6:40am service.

However the kilt is not set to become part of regular cabin crew uniforms, and will only be used for special occasions. The design is the first tartan to be officially registered by the Scottish Register of Tartans since records began six years ago.

Reaction to the tartan has been mixed, with some design experts calling the launch an appropriate way for the airline to mark its commitment to Scotland. Design expert Susanna Freedman, head of brand at design firm Emperor said: “Tartan is such an iconic textile, and employed with consideration – as part of an overall design scheme – can add real impact and authenticity.

“I hope we see a ‘less is more’ approach – or innovative execution in its use – that fits with easyJet’s brand positioning, rather than it appearing as a superficial ‘bolt on’ to current easyJet apparel.”

Richard Havers, a former British Caledonian general manager for Europe, admires easyJet’s idea but not its design. Tartan-clad cabin crew is most famously associated with now-defunct British Caledonian and its predecessor Caledonia Airways. Staff wore a range of tartans from the 1960s until its takeover by British Airways in 1988.

He said: “It’s quite a clever idea, but a bit of a dubious tartan. Making up a tartan is a cheap trick. Sir Adam Thomson [British Caledonian’s founder and chairman] would be turning in his grave.

“British Caledonian used about 30 tartans, but none were designed for the airline, that would have been against its ethos. It would have felt it was not the right thing to do.”

Mr Havers said both cabin crew and check-in staff had chosen which tartan to wear.

He added: “Most based their choice on their hair colour, with blondes picking green tartans and those with dark hair going for red ones.”

The former airline executive said tartan had been part of British Caledonian’s brand image, which was the “total antithesis” to easyJet’s. He said: “It was an era when flying was more glamorous – passengers wore jackets and ties.”

Mr Havers said it was a “pity” easyJet appeared to be using the tartan as a publicity stunt.

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This isn’t the first time a Santa has appeared playing the pipes  – last Christmas in Portland, Oregon a kilted Santa playing the bagpipes and riding a unicycle was spotted on a number of occasions on the city’s streets. Unfortunately there have been no confirmed sightings of the bearded piper this year.

The post Hundreds of Piping Santas Advance on Edinburgh appeared first on ScotClans | Scottish Clans.

1 -  Aran Knit Cable Top Hose

Our wonderful hose maker Mrs Allen is retiring and clearing out her stock, so we have a few pairs of these fabulous kilt hose left and available at a great price. The hose are hand made and of the highest quality – they’re guaranteed to keep you warm this winter! Available in cream and black. Be in quick – once they’re gone that’s it! We’ve also got our top selling Stretch Kilt Hose ready to go now too – we hear they also make excellent walking socks!

2 – Luckenbooth Brooch

One of our favourite items in our store, the Luckenbooth Brooch, so called because of its sale from ‘locked booths’ on Edinburgh’s Royal Mile. These brooches were traditionally gifted by a young man to his betrothed and subsequently pinned to the shawl of the first baby to protect from evil spirits. Made in pewter to a traditional design, this brooch is approx. 41mm high.

3 – Tea Towels

We’ve got a load of lovely tea towels available in our store, including these clan crest designs that are made right here in Scotland. They’re 100% cotton, and would also be ideal for framing or hanging. Check out our complete range by clicking the links below:

Clan Crest
Map of Scotland
Wha’s Like Us? Scottish Inventions
Traditional Scottish Recipes
Souviner Scotland Map
Scottish Toasts and Verses
Legends of Scotland
Auld Scots Words
Amazing Grace
Scottish Town Crest Map
Country Flowers of Scotland

 4 – Celtic Dress Sgain Brew

This unique alternative to the classic Sgian Dubh features a bottle opener in place of the usual blade, offering you a safe alternative, as well as a handy tool for opening your favourite beverages. With a stunning celtic knot handle the Sgian Brew will still look the part once secured in your kilt hose. If you’re after the real thing, we also have this fantastic economy Sgain Dubh available to ship now.

5 – Clan Mini Books

Finally, here’s a perfect stocking filler or secret santa gift. These great little books give you a potted history of your clan – illustrated with famous McIan paintings of the highland chiefs.

The post Top 5: Last Minute Gift Ideas appeared first on ScotClans | Scottish Clans.

Rodger – Clan Crest and Tartan Wooden Coasters

Clan Coaster Pack

New and exclusive to ScotClans, these high-gloss wooden coasters are available in hundreds of different clans and tartans.
Rodger says:

The print quality of these coasters is quite spectacular, the colours are incredibly vivid and the detail is sharp. I have a sample one we printed up on my desk and its been in constant use for best part of 6 months and it still looks as good as new. I really can’t recommend this product highly enough. What’s better is you can team this up with the placements made from the same material.

 Amanda – Edinburgh Scarf Cape

Edinburgh Scarf Cape

This beauty is made from 100% pure new wool (reiver) and is available in over 500 tartans. It’s made by Lochcarron of Scotland, but please be aware that it is made to order and can take 4-6 weeks to make on top of delivery. Perfect for keeping you warm during the months of cold ahead!
Amanda says:

Perfect for the Edinburgh Weather. I’m not someone who would wear a kilt but love the idea of showing off my Clan Moffat connections with this. (Hint hint Rodger Moffet!)

Donald  – Large Clan Plaque

Exclusive to ScotClans, this fantastic plaque measures 19x24cm and is available in any tartan and clan we have a crest for (we’ve got hundreds!). Donald is our chief plaque maker, so all of these plaques come to you directly from him in our wee home in Edinburgh. It’s printed in high quality with fantastic detail and vivid colours. They’re made to order so please factor this in when choosing your delivery option.

Margaret – Whisky Guide and Clan Map of Scotland

Whisky – All You Need To Know Bookazine

Clan Map of Scotland

Whisky – All You Need to Know is your quintessential guide to Scottish whisky. The book includes information on top drams and distilleries in Scotland, and a comprehensive history of the drink known as ‘the water of life’. Margret says that this extensive and thorough book is fantastic value for money, and the perfect addition to any whisky enthusiasts collection. She also chose the fantastic Clan Map of Scotland (59x42cm). In addition to showing where  major clans and families hail from, the map also shows important sites of interest such as where the Declaration of Arbroath was signed, the location of the Raising of the Standard and major battle sites.
Margaret said:

The Clan Map of Scotland is such a fantastic map and looks stunning in a frame. We have one in the office and it looks great.

Andy – Clan Crest Mobile Phone Covers

Clan Crest Mobile Phone Covers

Our mobile phone clan crest covers come in a whole range of different models. They’re available in leather, aluminum or hard wearing plastic with a high quality clan and tartan print on the back. Andy is our chief photographer at ScotClans – he thinks the cases are perfect for showing your clan allegiance when you’re on the go. Available in the following models: iPhone 4 & 5 aluminium, Leather iPhone 4/4S/5 Flipcase and Samsung, Blackberry, HTC & Nokia Case.

Nadine – Silver Locket for Six Photos

Silver Locket for Six Photos

In a wildly imaginary world in which I have untold amounts of money to spend on jewellery, this would be at the top of my list! This beautiful and intricate handcrafted sterling silver ‘boule’ locket is reminiscent of Mary, Queen of Scots’ silver pomander. The locket opens to reveal six secret photograph frames, hallmarked on the back. The pendent measures approximately 30mm in diameter and is hung on either a 10mm tartan ribbon, authenticated by the Scottish Tartans Authority or a luxurious satin ribbon. The catch is a heavy silver plated ring and bar toggle. Each necklace is designed and handmade in Scotland. Please note that this item is made to order and takes 7-10 days to make on top of normal delivery times.

Floyd (office dog) – Soft Toy Frog with Clan Crest T-Shirt

Soft Toy Frog with Clan Crest T-shirt

Floyd tells me he’s a fan of our cute little clan soft toys – especially the frog! They come with a t-shirt which is able to printed in hundreds of different clan crests. We’ve also got Lambs, Reindeer and Rabbits available too.

The post All You Want for Christmas – Our Picks appeared first on ScotClans | Scottish Clans.

The Pyramid of Khafre, Giza Necropolis, Cairo

It seems wherever you travel around the globe, you can’t miss signs of Scottish influence. From bagpipes being played in far off antipodean lands to Ceilidhs taking place in South America, the Scots have sure spread themselves far and wide. I recently traveled through Egypt, eyes peeled for any evidence of these great wanderers.

Today Egypt is sadly far down the list of travel destinations for holiday makers. The most recent revolution earlier this year (or coup, depending on who you’re speaking with), follows three years of life-changing political change that has turned the majority of travelers off the region, as the country remains stuck in a kind of political purgatory. I was a little nervous about visiting Egypt, but after conducting a large amount of research online, we discovered the situation on the ground was a lot calmer than what is shown on the evening news.

Revolution Graffiti, Luxor

The signs of revolution in Egypt are evident – curfews are still in place, political graffiti adorns city walls, and tanks and soldiers patrol the streets (mainly to keep the few visitors that are still visiting safe). But I have never been more blissfully overwhelmed in my life than when I first set eyes on the grandeur that is the Great Pyramids of Giza. I’ll also never forget my afternoon spent floating on a Felucca down the incredibly tranquil and soothing Nile. And just as in Scotland, every corner you turn you’ll find another historical gem sitting as it has for thousands of years, patiently awaiting you – from Mosques, Coptic Churches and the odd Synagogue, to the thousands of temples and monuments from ancient times.

So what are the ties between Egypt and Scotland? Well, it turns out they both wear.. kilts! Look at any statue of the great Pharaohs that adorn temples, and you’ll notice these titans of ancient times are wearing what my fantastic guide Mustafa refereed to as the ‘Royal Kilt’. My ears pricked up when he said this – as I had been searching far and wide for some way to tie the two countries together. Known also as the Shendyt, this kilt (generally made of linen) was the basic form of dress for Egyptian men of all social classes for thousands of years. And just like Scottish kilts, the Egyptian version is also pleated in the back.

Ramses II wearing the Royal Kilt, Ancient City of Memphis

The Shendyt is probably an adaptation of early hunting skirts which allowed freedom of movement for the wearer. Members of the military wore a version of the Shendyt, as they too would need freedom of movement for battle. A man’s status was also confirmed by how elaborate his kilt was, and how fine the linen used to make it. The kilts of the rich nobles and Pharaohs were often very intricately pleated, and must have been difficult to care for. By the Middle Kingdom, mens kilts had become longer and more complex and ornamental pendants were often attached to elaborate belts.

Upon further research I also discovered that another quintessential Scottish item can possibly trace its ancestry to the ancient Egyptians. The bagpipes roots lie in ancient Egypt and Babylonia, where early double-piped instruments probably sounded the melody and the bag as air supply played the accompaniment. Some sources say the pipes made their way to Scotland via Rome – Emperor Nero (37-68 A.C.) was apparently a keen player. During the Roman expansion into Europe and Britain, the bagpipes were used by soldiers during religious observances, and could have been appropriated then by the locals. Other sources say the bagpipes reached Scotland with immigrants from the Mediterranean by the way of the west coast between 2000 and 3000 B.C., or via Ireland with its close ties to Spain. Or of course it could be that the Highlanders invented their pipes completely independently in pre-Roman times.

If you’ve been thinking of going, Egypt needs you now more than ever as so much of the country relies on tourism. It broke my heart that the major sightseeing destinations had been reduced to ghost-towns. When I visited the Valley of the Kings with my dad, we were the only people there, and felt as if we were modern day explorers discovering the tombs for the first time.

I feel incredibly fortunate that I was able to spend time in Egypt, especially during such a pivotal moment in the country’s immense history. The Egyptians are a wonderfully friendly bunch who will go to all lengths to make you feel welcome in their country. If you’re considering making the trip – go! It’s definitely not your average holiday, but completely worth it for the sights, the people, the food, and even the heat.

I was looked after in Cairo and Luxor by the incredibly wonderful Memphis Tours – Cheers guys!

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Mr Lundgren channeling Scotland

A bus driver in the northern Swedish town of Umea has begun wearing a skirt to work as temperatures sore past 25C. Mats Lundgren decided to find a trouser alternative when his boss turned down his request to wear shorts to work, stating he was fed up of sitting in the drivers’ seat for hours at a time in dark uniform trousers.

“The Scottish are very lucky to be able to wear kilts all the time,” he said – adding he was not trying to imitate all of the traditions that come with wearing one. Mr Lundgren is exploiting a loophole in the firm’s dress code, which allows skirts to be worn but does not specify which sex should be wearing them.

“The reaction here has been nice – the passengers all smile and my workmates think it’s hilarious, but I don’t expect to set a trend among them,” he told BBC News Online. “I wore it all day yesterday. It was very nice to have a bit of a breeze.”

As Mr Lundgren settles into the driver’s seat, the navy blue skirt slides up his thighs just above his bony knees, revealing a pair of hairy white legs. “It’s even better than shorts. It’s unbearable driving a bus in long trousers when the sun is blazing through the windscreen, but with the skirt it feels just great,” he says.

“I am divorced, so I had to borrow the skirt from a friend. Unfortunately, she is a couple of sizes smaller than me, which means I have to squeeze into it,” he added.

Rolf Persson, managing director of Umea’s transport authority said he was surprised to see Mr Lundgren dressed this way. But his hands were tied, he said, as careful perusal of regulations produced no mention of rules about men in skirts.

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